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The Bernina Express is one of the world's great train journeys, a UNESCO World Heritage railway that climbs from the glaciers of the high Swiss Alps down to the palm-lined streets of northern Italy in a single, unforgettable ride. Travelling in panoramic carriages with soaring curved windows, you cross dramatic viaducts, spiral through a famous circular loop, skirt turquoise alpine lakes and pass within sight of vast glaciers, all without a single rack-and-pinion section despite the steep gradients. This guide focuses on the experience itself: what you will see, the best seats, when to go, and how to make the most of the journey.
Rather than a timetable, think of this as your guide to savouring the Bernina Express, the highlights to watch for, the atmosphere on board, and the practical know-how that turns a beautiful train ride into a truly memorable day.
Why the Bernina Express is special
What sets the Bernina Express apart is the sheer variety of landscape it crosses in just a few hours, and the engineering that makes it possible. The line is part of the Rhaetian Railway, inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its harmonious blend of bold engineering and spectacular scenery. It is the highest transalpine railway crossing of its kind, climbing to the 2,253-metre Bernina Pass on ordinary adhesion track, with no cog to help it, a remarkable feat given the gradients involved.
Across its route the train threads through 55 tunnels and over 196 bridges, descending from a world of snow, ice and high passes to the Mediterranean warmth of Tirano, where palm trees grow. Few journeys anywhere compress such contrast into so short a distance, and doing it in comfort, behind glass, with the mountains wheeling past, is the essence of its appeal.
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The route and where it runs
The Bernina Express links the Swiss towns of Chur and St. Moritz with the Italian town of Tirano, just over the border in Lombardy. From the elegant resort of St. Moritz the train climbs into the Bernina massif, crests the pass amid glaciers and lakes, then descends in dramatic loops to Tirano. Many travellers ride one direction and combine it with a connecting Bernina Express bus onward to Lugano, turning the trip into a grand tour of south-eastern Switzerland and the Italian lakes. The journey can be enjoyed as a full traverse or as a shorter taste of the most scenic central section.
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Highlights to watch for along the way
The Bernina Express is a procession of unforgettable sights. Knowing what is coming helps you have your camera ready and your eyes on the right side of the train at the right moment.
The Landwasser Viaduct
On the northern part of the wider Rhaetian network, the Landwasser Viaduct is an icon: a graceful, curving six-arch stone bridge 65 metres high that sweeps the train directly into a tunnel bored into a sheer cliff, with no visible approach. It is one of the most photographed railway structures in the world.
The Bernina Pass and its lakes
At the heart of the journey, the train crests the Bernina Pass at 2,253 metres, gliding past a string of high alpine lakes including the milky, glacier-fed Lago Bianco. Up here the scenery is starkly beautiful, with snowfields and the white tongues of glaciers, most strikingly the Morteratsch, visible from your seat.
The Brusio Circular Viaduct
The signature spectacle comes near the end, at Brusio, where the line cannot lose height fast enough on the steep slope. The solution is the Brusio circular viaduct, an open-air spiral on which the train curves through a full 360-degree loop, crossing over itself, an exhilarating finale that passengers crane to watch from the windows.
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The panoramic carriages and onboard experience
Much of the magic of the Bernina Express lies in its purpose-built panorama coaches, available in both first and second class. Their large, curved windows extend up into the roof, so you can look out not just across the valleys but up at the peaks and viaducts towering above. The carriages are comfortable and unhurried, and an onboard commentary points out the highlights as they appear. Because every seat enjoys the panoramic glass, even second class offers a wonderful view, though first class provides a little more space and slightly larger windows.
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Which side of the train is best?
Views switch from side to side throughout the journey, so no single seat captures everything, and the panoramic roof windows help you see across the carriage either way. That said, travelling from Chur or St. Moritz towards Tirano, the right-hand side is often favoured for the Brusio circular viaduct and several of the southern valley views, while the left offers fine glimpses of the Bernina lakes. The best advice is to stay relaxed, move to the windows at the highlights, and not worry too much, as the commentary will alert you to what is coming.
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Bernina Express at a glance
If you remember a handful of things before you board, make them these: the UNESCO route, the high pass, the engineering numbers and the signature viaducts. The summary below captures the essentials at a single glance.
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Best time of year to ride
The Bernina Express runs year-round, and each season offers something different. Summer brings green valleys, wildflowers and long daylight, while autumn paints the larches gold. Perhaps most magical of all is winter, when the high section around the Bernina Pass becomes a glittering white wonderland of deep snow and frozen lakes, all the more striking when you descend into the milder south. There is no wrong time to travel; the choice depends on whether you prefer alpine greenery or a snow-clad fairytale.
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Practical tips for your journey
The Bernina Express is wonderfully easy to enjoy, but a few essentials are worth knowing before you go, particularly because it is a reserved panoramic service that crosses an international border.
- ⢠A seat reservation is compulsory on the Bernina Express, in addition to your ticket or rail pass; book ahead, as seats sell out in peak season.
- ⢠Carry your passport or ID, since the route crosses the Swiss-Italian border into Tirano.
- ⢠Sit back from the glass for photos to reduce reflections, or step to the open platforms where available.
- ⢠Bring layers, as you travel from warm valleys to a high, cold pass within hours.
- ⢠Consider pairing the train one way with the Bernina Express bus to Lugano for a varied round trip.
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What to wear and practical tips
Even in midsummer, the temperature at the top is usually around or below freezing, and the thin air at 3,454 metres can leave you short of breath if you move quickly. A little preparation makes the day far more enjoyable.
- ⢠Dress in warm layers with a windproof jacket, and bring gloves and a hat even in summer.
- ⢠Wear sturdy, non-slip shoes; outdoor areas can be snowy and icy year-round.
- ⢠Bring sunglasses and sun cream, as glare off the snow at altitude is intense.
- ⢠Take it slowly when you arrive to let your body adjust to the altitude, and stay hydrated.
- ⢠Carry your passport, and check the summit weather and webcams before you set off.
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Tickets and the Swiss Travel Pass
As a scheduled train on the Swiss network, the Bernina Express route is covered by the Swiss Travel Pass, so pass holders travel the Swiss portion without a separate fare. The compulsory seat reservation for the panoramic service is an extra charge on top of any pass or ticket. Booking your reservation early through an authorised seller is strongly recommended, especially in summer and around the winter holidays, to guarantee a panoramic seat on the day you want to travel.
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How long is the journey, and is it tiring?
The full Bernina Express run between St. Moritz and Tirano takes roughly four hours, while the longer service from Chur adds a couple more. Far from being tiring, it is one of the most restful ways imaginable to cross the Alps: you settle into a comfortable reserved seat, the panoramic windows do the work, and the onboard commentary points out the highlights so you never feel you are missing anything. Many travellers ride it as a relaxed day trip and return by a different route, while those short on time can experience just the most scenic central section over the Bernina Pass. Either way, it is a journey to be enjoyed slowly rather than rushed.
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Combining the Bernina Express with St. Moritz and Lugano
The Bernina Express rewards a little extra time on either end. The glamorous resort of St. Moritz makes a stylish starting point, with its lakes and mountain trails, while at the southern end, the Italian town of Tirano invites a wander through its streets and a stop at its famous pilgrimage church. From Tirano, the connecting Bernina Express bus carries you on through Italy to Lugano, the palm-fringed jewel of Italian-speaking Switzerland, turning the trip into a grand south-to-north loop. Some travellers also pair the Bernina Express with the Glacier Express for an unforgettable double bill of the world's most scenic railways.
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Frequently asked questions
Where does the Bernina Express go?
The Bernina Express runs between Chur or St. Moritz in Switzerland and Tirano in Italy, crossing the UNESCO World Heritage Rhaetian Railway over the 2,253-metre Bernina Pass. A connecting bus can extend the trip to Lugano.
Do you need a reservation for the Bernina Express?
Yes. A seat reservation is compulsory on the Bernina Express panoramic train, in addition to your ticket or rail pass, and it is wise to book ahead as seats fill quickly in peak periods.
Is the Bernina Express covered by the Swiss Travel Pass?
The Swiss Travel Pass covers the journey on the Swiss network, but the mandatory panoramic seat reservation is charged separately. The Italian section beyond the border may require a supplement.
Is the Bernina Express worth it?
Absolutely. It is one of the most scenic train journeys in the world, taking you from glaciers and high passes to palm-lined Italy through tunnels, viaducts and a famous spiral loop, all from a comfortable panoramic carriage.
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Final thoughts
The Bernina Express is far more than a way to get from Switzerland to Italy; it is a journey to be savoured for its own sake. Watch the glaciers slide past the panoramic glass, hold your breath on the Brusio loop, and feel the air warm as the larches give way to palms. Reserve your seat early, carry your passport, pick a season that suits your mood, and let one of the world's greatest railways carry you through a UNESCO World Heritage landscape that you will remember for a lifetime.
